Ep. 9 – Volunteering in Cambodia


Here is our little video from our week as volunteers at the Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary. We hope you enjoy seeing all of the animals as much as we did! Don’t forget to watch in 1080p and see our accompanying blog post for photographs and more info.

Sophie & Dave

Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary


If you’ve read our Chiang Mai blog or seen our Thailand Video, you’ll know we spent a day at the Elephant Nature Park (ENP). We decided that we would spend a week volunteering at the Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary (CWS) which is the sister project of ENP. After our time visiting the temples of Siem Reap we were picked up and driven 2 hours north to the wildlife sanctuary in the Anlong Veng district. We were a small group with only three other volunteers for the week; Hilary, a hilarious American with the most contagious laugh you’ve ever heard, Courtney, a lovely, bubbly Canadian with the least grace (in the best possible way – like every time a fly came near her she’d go for a full on slap in the face) and Kim, an Australian with a heart of gold. We honestly lucked out so much with these three as they made our time so much better. We also had a volunteer co-ordinator, Chan, who we spent most of our time with. She was one of the most inspiring people I’ve ever met with so much enthusiasm and kindness to share. Though her story is personal and not for me to share, take my word for it that despite her hardships, she turned in to the kindest, most hard-working woman on the planet. She’s also the only person at the sanctuary who speaks fluent Khmer and English so we relied a lot on her for translations, as did everyone! She did a language class with us one evening which I loved! There were also a few members of staff that we got on well with. Especially Holly, she is a long-term volunteer, medic, micro-farmer and backpacker extraordinaire. She was captivating and told stories where you often found yourself scooping your jaw off the floor, (Eg the time she accidentally got married to a man in a tribe in Papua New Guinea, the same trip that she got blood poisoning and malaria but wasn’t able to go to a hospital?!).

The Cambodian wildlife sanctuary is home to 4 beautiful elephants who were all rescued from the logging trade. Each elephant had been abused as a baby and subjected to a tortuous process called the Phajaan, or “the crush” in order to be tamed. During this process, elephants are repeatedly beaten while all four legs are chained so they are unable to move. Sleep deprivation, starvation and thirst are also used to break the elephants’ spirit and make them more responsive to their mahouts commands. Throughout the process, a mahout will stay with with the elephant to ensure that they do not commit suicide by standing on their own trunks. What is equally disturbing is that often, once the young elephant has been poached, the remaining herd will be slaughtered. The same thing happens to elephants used for tourist rides, shows, elephant paintings and more, so don’t be part of the abuse!

Our favourite elephant was Kham-lin who is completely blind (likely by her Mahout so that she was totally reliant on him during her logging life), but she is such a gentle giant. The sanctuary also has monkeys often rescued from road-side stalls. They had one new recent addition when we arrived, a baby Macaque monkey only a month or two old. Some of my favourite animal photos I’ve ever taken are of this little one (see below)! It is also home to rescued bats, birds and rabbits. There is also a pack of 7 dogs, all of whom we loved. Everyone’s favourite was a dorky Alsatian mix called Alfie who was just the sweetest dog ever. We also liked Mark, (best dog name ever?) who had a sticky out snaggle tooth and there was also a three-legged dog called Muay who’d had his leg caught in a poacher’s trap last year. We’d never seen an actual functioning pack so it was really interesting to watch their behaviour and see who the leader was etc. There were also a myriad of other jungle friends we came to meet, mostly when we weren’t expecting it in the toilets or showers, like frogs, geckos and lizards. Fortunately I’m obsessed with reptiles and often took my camera on expeditions to the bathrooms during the week. I even saw a massive Tokay gecko, with vibrant blue and orange colourings. Even he was a bit too disconcerting for me to shower with, so I opted for the next cubicle. We were pleasantly surprised to find we had our own hut when we arrived, well just us 2 humans and lots of other animals. We found the biggest furry spider we’d ever seen. Everyone else was accustomed to seeing spiders like this but Dave and I from our little British bubble were mind-blown. Dave also had a gecko poo on his back as he was shirtless which amused me greatly, until I went to pick up my camera and realised the gecko had also shat on that. One evening, I went to bed early whilst Dave stayed in the communal bit. As I was trying to sleep, I could hear almost like footsteps on the beams and actual crunching sounds. Usually we ignored all the jungle sounds but this time I fumbled around to put my glasses on just in time to see 2 huge Torcay geckos fighting over a massive insect. As I went to get my camera, one crawled out of the hut but I still got a grainy flash photo of one gecko with the beetle in his mouth half chewed!

As with any organisation, non-profit or not, there will always be people/aspects of a project that you don’t agree with, but first let me say, overall it is a fantastic place that betters the quality of life for many animals. The main problem we had was a lack of communication from the person who should have been informing us. As much as we were there to see these incredible animals, we also came to learn about them. We did learn things throughout the week, but in drips and drabs through other passionate staff who we were just lucky to have had the chance to interact with. For example, by fluke, on the first day we were there, we met Ryan who is laying the ground work for a new sanctuary in Myanmar. He was fascinating and took the time to explain why a couple of the elephants still had ropes tied around their legs – they are still adjusting to their new life and though the rope isn’t actually tied to anything, it enables the mahouts to restrain them in a rare case of an emergency until they are accustomed to their new home. It is important that the elephants only roam within the sanctuary, as they are still at risk from poachers if they venture further afield. In a casual conversation with Holly on our penultimate day at the sanctuary, we found out that the long term objective of the sanctuary is to pioneer the first place in the world where rescued elephants are left to roam in a designated area without mahouts and with just optional feeding stations. This is the sort of key information we thought we should have been told at the start. We’d have liked a bit more clarity about both the short and long term objectives of the sanctuary but clearly, even if they didn’t tell us, they are doing great things!

The first day we were there was actually a momentous occasion for the sanctuary, they had just completed the new nighttime enclosure for the elephants. After blessing us as the new volunteers, we followed the local Buddhist village elder round the enclosure as he blessed that too. All this talk of ropes and enclosures might be making you raise your eyebrows but the main thing to remember is where these animals have come from. I feel like I had quite a strong preconception about what the word “sanctuary” meant. Perhaps I was just really naive and didn’t full understand the complexity of the situation. In the end, I liked to think of it as a hospice for the elephants. Most of the elephants are old and deserve a loving, free as possible, last bit of their lives.

In the evenings we sometimes watched documentaries made about the sanctuary. It was interesting to hear more about the rate of deforestation in Cambodia, one of the highest in the world. Apparently, between 1990 and 2005, Cambodia lost 19.3% of it’s forests. Of course we hear about the horrors of deforestation and the importance of conservation in the UK, but it often can feel like a foreign concept. When we were at the sanctuary, in a jungle, I think it became more real. Seeing so many animals use these trees as their home and a source of food made it so troubling to think of their loss of habitat. Especially outside the boundary of the 25,000 acre sanctuary, tree stumps just littered the landscape.

We had quite a few different volunteer tasks throughout the week, I’ll start with the only bad part to get that out of the way. The worst part was when we went to visit the local school. The problem was with the inefficiency of communication from the Sanctuary staff. My biggest fear of signing up to ‘be a volunteer’ was that I would be a hindrance rather than help. I remember vividly my friend from school who went to “help build” a school in India with zero construction knowledge and he said the locals had to re-do the work they had done during the day at night. Anyway, with the week’s tasks so far, it was all fine, scooping elephant poo does not require a specialist set of skills so I was happy to get stuck in to that. All was fine, up until the school. The first alarm bells were when we went to the school and there were no kids because it was a public holiday. We were instantly skeptical, how close could they actually be to the local community if they didn’t know this? We came back the next day, the school was a shack with 2 rooms crammed full of children. The school has no toilets which is very concerning. We hope that this will be a priority area for the sanctuary to help with. Especially as the girls are getting older, some are already 14, so what are they expected to do at school if they get their periods?! There were 2 classes, the youngsters who Kim, Courtney and Hilary went with and the older class of 10-14 year olds that Dave and I went to. Our task was to teach the kids English for an hour. I am no teacher nor parent, my experience with kids only consists of babysitting, tutoring kids in French and playing with my cousins. The only teaching material we were given was a few very basic clothing, animal and numbers flash cards. Going in, we had no idea of their ability level.  We actually didn’t even know their ages when we went in, we deduced this by getting them to come and write their ages on the blackboard in English. We started with the alphabet which we soon discovered they knew back to front. We went through the flashcards and the kids knew them off by heart before we’d barely lifted the card up. Of course I appreciate repetition is key, but this was a joke. I dreaded to think how many times these kids had to do this over and over to appease these ignorant Westerners. We changed tac and tried to do maths instead. Again, we had no idea with their level, so we started with basic 2+3. Every sum we started to make harder, and by the end, we realised they could do 24×3+7-13 at the same speed as Dave (a bloody chartered accountant) and produce the number in English. As we left the classroom, I was already so upset thinking about how much I had wasted these intelligent kids’ time that I didn’t want to be in any of the photographs or take any. When we got back to the sanctuary, I was already crying in frustration. With the help of Dave, I vented to the main staff member, probably slightly incoherently. Turns out the main objective is to teach the children about conservation and deforestation. Erm, definitely hadn’t been told that! I was mostly livid because we hadn’t been briefed at all on the children’s ability and I felt that I had taken away from their precious time for education. The silver lining of it all is Holly, who I mentioned before. She made us feel like what we were saying was not falling on deaf ears and promised to help change it. Even when we left the sanctuary, she went to Siem Reap too and bought new, more advanced teaching material. We went for dinner with the other volunteers and Holly when we were back in Siem Reap and she was telling us about all the stuff she’d bought. It was interesting to hear that even the children’s books had images of monkeys in chains or humans inflicting harm on tigers. What a battle they are up against to change the mindset of a population where animal abuse is normalised in children’s books! I have since seen on Facebook that Holly has done paintings of elephants with the kids and they even got to come and visit the sanctuary which hadn’t happened before! I’m so pleased that positive change came of it.

Now on to other volunteer tasks. Every morning after breakfast, we’d march out, armed with pitch forks, rakes, shovels and wheelbarrows, ready to scoop a LOT of elephant poo. It’s actually not as bad as you’d think and the stench varied day to day. Another more pleasant daily chore was food prep for the elephants. The elephants basically ate all day anyway, picking from their surroundings, but they also got bonus feeding times. Kham-Lin the blind elephant only has 2 teeth so she got her own special rice ball mixture. We’d chop palm sugar, tamarind and cucumbers, peel hundreds of bananas and then mush them together with rice and pellets. She would then be hand-fed compact balls. She was very fussy and if the banana ratio wasn’t high enough, she wasn’t interested in eating it. The other three elephants ate sugar cane and occasionally bananas. It’s absolute madness watching an elephant chomp straight through sugar cane with ease when us mere humans wrestle with machetes to chop it up! We also tried sugar cane for the first time and its delicious, albeit hard to eat. On a couple of occasions, we went out on the back of a tractor to collect sugar cane. Now when I say tractor, it is not a convenstional tractor, but the crazy Asian tractors. Sort of like a lawn mower on sticks with a trailer attached to the back? You’ll see it in our video, it’s hard to describe. Anyway, we all thought it was great fun bouncing around in the back. Cutting down sugar cane with a machete is surprisingly do-able. The problem was that there were so many red ants that were furiously biting whatever flesh we had exposed. At home with Dave, I’m usually not trusted to even cut carrots in the kitchen, and I suddenly realised that I was frantically jumping around, smacking various limbs whilst simultaneously wielding a machete – I decided I should just sit it out for a bit haha. A few other tasks we did in the week were seed planting, cleaning 3 geese/duck/bird ponds and cleaning up the sanctuary of left over building materials.

Though it wasn’t really a task, the highlight of everyones time were the jungle walks with the elephants (and most of the dogs joined too). There is something so awe-inspiring to watch these massive creatures amble through the jungle with ease. We got to observe them in a bit more of their natural habitat. There was a dam that they wallowed in and one even went completely under water and then sprung out, still eating sugar cane. It was also so interesting walking with Chan as she told us all the little fruits and leaves we could pick and eat. There was a second walk at the end of the week, unfortunately for me, I didn’t go on that one because the elephant food cart had ran over and crushed my little toe the day before and I couldn’t get my trainers on. I still had a lovely time because I got to sit with Holly and the baby Macaque monkey and then jumped in the pick up truck with the workers to meet everyone for lunch in the jungle. Dave said his favourite part of the walk was when they all had to crouch and crawl though a little clearing and the elephant came behind and casually lifted up a log with its trunk and threw it behind her in time for the next elephant to catch it and do the same! He said the sheer power of the trunk was just mesmerising to watch.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about our time at the Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary. I would definitely recommend volunteering for the week if you get the chance! It’s $400 per person, but that includes your accommodation, three buffet meals, transport to and from the sanctuary and any profit goes towards the sanctuary. Definitely a worthy cause!

Here are some handy links if you’d like more info:

Sophie & Dave

Don’t forget to watch our volunteering video as well!

Ep. 8 – Cambodia


We are currently in Thailand and a little behind schedule but here is our short video of our time in Cambodia! We were a little weary of filming any part of the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng (S21 Prison) in Phnom Penh, hopefully you see this as educational rather than insensitive. If you’d prefer not to see the parts about the Cambodian genocide, skip ahead to 2mins12. The rest of the video is our time exploring the magnificent temples of Angkor in Siem Reap.

Our week volunteering at the Cambodian Wildlife Sanctuary will follow shortly and is in our opinion, the best one yet!

As always don’t forget to watch in 1080p!

Hope you enjoy seeing what we’ve been up to.

Sophie & Dave

Phnom Penh & Siem Reap – Cambodia

We left Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam on a bus for our first land border crossing in to Cambodia! We weren’t quite sure what to expect but we had our exact USD for the visa ready. The bus driver nor conductor spoke English so it was quite frustrating when they took everyone’s passports and weren’t able to explain what was happening. It all worked out okay though and we were given our passports back and walked through the border crossing checkpoint.

The bus dropped us off and we went to try and withdraw some cash. It was a nail-biting endeavour when the machine froze with Dave’s Monzo card still in it, fortunately it spat it back out in due course. If anyone’s wondering how we’re withdrawing cash/paying for things by the way, we both have Monzo accounts and it has been a literal life saver. They charge 0% on cash withdrawals/payments, plus provide a more favourable exchange rate compared to other highstreet banks and has so far worked in every country. We’d heard that Cambodia used US dollars as well as Cambodian Riel but we didn’t realise the extent that the USD is circulated. The only time we had Cambodian Riel was when we were given change smaller than a 1 dollar note. We didn’t actually manage to withdraw anything when the card froze so we walked to our hostel in the dark which we usually try to avoid. All fine, we just arrived dripping in sweat which I’m sure pleased the receptionist. The hostel was probably one of our most grim we’ve stayed actually but we were surprised at how expensive Cambodia was! Definitely the priciest Asian country we’d encountered so far. Anyway the hostel was grim because we saw numerous large rats when we were playing pool outside and we stayed there a few nights in a dorm and saw no one changed the sheets between new arrivals (hallelujah for the silk liner sleeping bag). Also, we got back one evening and someone had moved in to my bed and reception told me to just move to another bunk. Needless to say, they got a crap rating on Hostelworld.

Now, on to Cambodia. Cambodia was probably my number one country I wanted to visit on my list. I’m not quite sure where the obsession came from but I was so excited. Phnom Penh (pronounced P-nom incase you’re reading it F-nom like I was, oops) is where the Killing Fields are located so we spent our time visiting these historic places to learn more about the genocide in Cambodia committed by the Khmer Rouge between 1975-1979 where millions of innocent people died. We first went to Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre, the main Killing Fields so to speak. We each got an audio tape to guide us. It was the best museum/historical site I had ever been to. I sound insensitive when I say best, what I mean is that it was genuinely one of the most harrowing things I’ve ever listened to or seen but it was so educational and well told. Nothing was sugar-coated. Everything was raw and honest. They had excerpts from trials, stories from survivors and stories from torturers too. They also had lots of propaganda slogans that Pol Pot used that I’d never heard before. Horrific things like “To keep you is no gain, to lose you is no loss”, “Better to kill an innocent by mistake, than spare an enemy by mistake”. I think one of the most painful parts was a tree in the site called the killing tree where executioners would kill babies by hitting them against it; another slogan used to justify it went something like “To dig up the grass, one must dig up the roots too” meaning they killed babies to avoid them seeking revenge for their families in later life. As we walked around listening, I kept finding myself trying to conceptualise the timeframe by comparing it to my own life. The liberation from the regime only happened 13 years before I was born and my Dad would have been a teenager! My Grandad was part of the UNBRO (United Nations Border Relief Operation) and organised medical supplies to the refugee camps on the Thai border. What really blew my mind was that the Khmer Rouge trail only became fully operational in 2007 where for the first time, some were held accountable for their heinous crimes. For that, I would have been 15 years old. 15! By which point, Pol Pot had lived a free life and died of old age – outrageous. There’s a Stupa (memorial structure) at the site too. It is filled with the skulls of the dead of all ages. You could see where there were huge cracks and dents from the blunt objects used to murder all of these people, a truly sobering experience.

The second site we visited was Tuol Sleng, S21 prison which was equally bone-chilling. S21 was a converted high school which made the whole experience even more cruel. We went inside the torture rooms and saw all the tools and torture devices used. We saw so many photographs of victims faces and it made the number of around 1.7 million dead even more real. We also saw photographs of the interrogators and they were honestly so young. Apparently they were often handpicked from poorer, rural villages; some didn’t look older than fifteen. The interrogators and torturers were there to force absurd confessions from all the prisoners before execution. There was a really interesting story about an Australian man who was captured and taken to the prison. His forced confession was used in the trial of Duch (leader of S21). We heard his brother read out part of the confession where he’d written his affiliations to the KBG and CIA, citing names from popular culture, I think one example was something like Sergeant Pepper (The Beatles). It really brought home the absurdity of what these innocent people had to do and how they had to sign their own execution warrant. There was also an artist who survived being held at S21 and there were lots of his paintings at the site. The paintings were of the torture that he’d experienced and witnessed and they were some of the most horrific things I’ve ever seen. Anyway, if you ever have the opportunity to visit Cambodia, you must take the time to visit the genocide museums.

After our time in Phnom Penh, we got a bus up to Siem Reap which was one of the best bus rides ever! They said it would be 7 hours but we got there in 5 and there was on board wifi that was so good I managed to watch a film on youtube! The bus company was the Mekong Express (if you ever need it). We found a really good deal on booking.com and we stayed in a fancy hotel. (I swear if you saw the variation of places we’ve stayed, you wouldn’t believe us that all of them were a similar price). Anyway, massive upgrade from rat infested Phnom Penh hostel. It had a salt water pool that we enjoyed when we weren’t out visiting the temples of Angkor.

The temples added to the pricey-ness of Cambodia, a 3 day pass to the temples was $62 each but it was definitely worth it. I also took my favourite photo from our year so far; a Changeable lizard on one of the temple ruins. Apparently the male’s throat becomes a firey orange/red during mating season (see below!). We probably visited over 15 temples throughout our 3 days but have a few favourites for different reasons. Dave’s favourite part was looking for the most intricate stone carvings and I liked when the jungle took the temples and stone and tree roots entwined to become one. The first temple we went to was Angkor Wat at sunrise, even though this had by far the most tourists, it was still really enjoyable to see such an iconic temple. All the temples reminded us very much of Bagan, Myanmar, just on a much larger scale. Bayon temple really stood out as a favourite because of the huge, carved, stone faces. I knew of this temple and had seen pictures but somehow hadn’t clocked that many of the faces were actually smiling. It was just so impressive even now and I couldn’t help wondering how striking it must have looked when it was first built around 1190AD. I bought yet another painting (to Dave’s utter delight – obviously), this time in water colour of one of the faces. Another favourite temple was Ta Prohm. This was the first temple we saw that had been properly consumed by the surrounding jungle. It’s also where Lara Croft – Tomb Raider is filmed, which my sister and I used to rewatch so many times when we were younger. The temple Beng Mealea which is much further afield than the standard temple route was completely in ruins. This was probably one of the biggest temples we visited, or maybe it just felt that way because there was barely anyone there which added to the eeriness of the abandoned, jungle-swallowed ruins. The final favourite, which was the temple we actually ended on, was Banteay Srei. It’s translation is the Citadel of Women and legend has it that the carvings are so intricate, it must have been built by women. It apparently dates as far back as 967AD which makes it all the more mind-blowing. Honestly, the detail in the red sandstone was unparalleled to any of the other temples we’d visited and it’s 1050 years old!!

After Siem Reap, we went to volunteer for a week at the Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary! We have so much to say and so many photos of elephants and the most adorable baby monkey that we’ll share next time.

Thanks for reading,

Sophie & Dave

PS – we look dreadful in most temple photos because we were just dripping in sweat. The first day especially was so hot. One of the temple ticket inspectors asked us if we’d been cycling rather than getting a tuk-tuk between temples because Dave was literally drenched. We had to politely laugh and say, nope, just can’t handle the heat!